Photo Tips
6 Tips about Composition for Landcapes
These tips have been taken from Pic Monkey and was written by Loretta Grande is a photographer and graphic designer. To see more of Loretta’s work, check out her Instagram:@lorettamgrande.
1 Use the Rule of Thirds
Photographers of all stripes use the rule of thirds to guide their compositions. The rule basically trashes the idea of framing your subject dead centre. If you imagine dividing your image into thirds, vertically and horizontally, the most appealing images have focal points where two of these lines intersect. That’s why many DSLR cameras show the grid in the viewfinder. When composing landscape shots, one of my first considerations is where the horizon line is. If the most interesting part of the shot is the land, I’ll compose my shot so that two thirds of the shot is land, and one third is sky. For shots in which the most dramatic part of the shot is the sky, then I want two thirds sky and one third land.
2 Use Trees or Plants to Frame the Picture
Framing is about using objects in the foreground to frame a point of interest in the background but it’s also about accentuating the landscape. Foliage is your friend! Positioning trees, plants, or other vertical features lets the landscape help you frame the shot.
3. Accentuate a point of interest in the foreground
1 Use the Rule of Thirds
Photographers of all stripes use the rule of thirds to guide their compositions. The rule basically trashes the idea of framing your subject dead centre. If you imagine dividing your image into thirds, vertically and horizontally, the most appealing images have focal points where two of these lines intersect. That’s why many DSLR cameras show the grid in the viewfinder. When composing landscape shots, one of my first considerations is where the horizon line is. If the most interesting part of the shot is the land, I’ll compose my shot so that two thirds of the shot is land, and one third is sky. For shots in which the most dramatic part of the shot is the sky, then I want two thirds sky and one third land.
2 Use Trees or Plants to Frame the Picture
Framing is about using objects in the foreground to frame a point of interest in the background but it’s also about accentuating the landscape. Foliage is your friend! Positioning trees, plants, or other vertical features lets the landscape help you frame the shot.
3. Accentuate a point of interest in the foreground
This particular forest is known for its lush flora, so the shot is framed in a way that the ferns in the foreground are set against the waterfall. Creating a vivid foreground adds depth to the shot.
4. Create a vanishing point
The vanishing point in any picture is the point at which two parallel lines appear to converge. Medieval painters used vanishing points to simulate three dimensions, making objects smaller and smaller in relation to it. In photography, framing the shot to create a vanishing point adds drama and draws the eye into the shot.
4. Create a vanishing point
The vanishing point in any picture is the point at which two parallel lines appear to converge. Medieval painters used vanishing points to simulate three dimensions, making objects smaller and smaller in relation to it. In photography, framing the shot to create a vanishing point adds drama and draws the eye into the shot.
5. Use diagonal lines
Diagonals add movement to your photo, drawing the viewer’s eyes into the scene. They can create points of interest, and emphasize the distances between objects in the foreground and background, which adds depth.
6. Reflect the beauty
Reflections are a perfect example of the cardinal rule that rules are meant to be broken: showing the horizon line in dead centre can be appealing, contrary to the rule of thirds. I like how the reflected scenery adds a painterly texture and abstract playfulness to the image.
6. Reflect the beauty
Reflections are a perfect example of the cardinal rule that rules are meant to be broken: showing the horizon line in dead centre can be appealing, contrary to the rule of thirds. I like how the reflected scenery adds a painterly texture and abstract playfulness to the image.
Here is a bonus tip from Fraserburgh Photographic Society
Make sure horizons are horizontal and verticals are vertical.
Make sure horizons are horizontal and verticals are vertical.
Five Ways to Improve Your Landscape Photography
Here I have reproduced an article from Picture Correct
Traveling photographer Jimmy McIntyre has been making quite a splash with his landscape photography.
1.Plan Everything (Yes, Everything!)
This might seem like a no-brainer and many of us know to go out to get the golden hour light and make sure it’s not raining, but how many of us really take it beyond that? There are many, many other things to take into consideration when getting the best landscape shots—everything from the sun and stars to when birds are migrating or tides will be coming in. Doing your research and planning accordingly will bring you one step closer to ensuring that you get the shots you’re hoping for. For celestial events, McIntyre likes to use Photographer’s Ephermis and/or PhotoPills, but there are plenty of others.
Traveling photographer Jimmy McIntyre has been making quite a splash with his landscape photography.
1.Plan Everything (Yes, Everything!)
This might seem like a no-brainer and many of us know to go out to get the golden hour light and make sure it’s not raining, but how many of us really take it beyond that? There are many, many other things to take into consideration when getting the best landscape shots—everything from the sun and stars to when birds are migrating or tides will be coming in. Doing your research and planning accordingly will bring you one step closer to ensuring that you get the shots you’re hoping for. For celestial events, McIntyre likes to use Photographer’s Ephermis and/or PhotoPills, but there are plenty of others.
2. Use an ND Filter (10-Stop or Higher)
Neutral density filters are filters that enable longer exposure times by reducing the amount of light they lit into your camera. This can create amazing effects that aren’t easily recreated in post-processing. From capturing amazing cloud or water motion to transforming a tumultuous scene into something surreal and quiescent, they can really make your photos stand out from the crowd. Most people find that mastering 10-stop ND filters takes a lot of practice, but they’re well worth the effect.
Neutral density filters are filters that enable longer exposure times by reducing the amount of light they lit into your camera. This can create amazing effects that aren’t easily recreated in post-processing. From capturing amazing cloud or water motion to transforming a tumultuous scene into something surreal and quiescent, they can really make your photos stand out from the crowd. Most people find that mastering 10-stop ND filters takes a lot of practice, but they’re well worth the effect.
3. Get Down Low When Composing
A lot of photographers get a little lazy when it comes to their shots, taking them from a standing or kneeling position, yet a low shot can really shake things up a bit. McIntyre finds that this position helps to bring out the leading lines of the foreground.
A lot of photographers get a little lazy when it comes to their shots, taking them from a standing or kneeling position, yet a low shot can really shake things up a bit. McIntyre finds that this position helps to bring out the leading lines of the foreground.
4. Plan a Trip Around a New Moon Phase
If you’re into photographing celestial events, you’re probably already well-acquainted with this idea, as the new moon is clearly the best time to shoot the Milky Way. It just also happens to be a great time for low tides and, if you’re doing more than just celestial photography, you’ll get in at least one set of either morning or evening golden hour photography. Double win!
If you’re into photographing celestial events, you’re probably already well-acquainted with this idea, as the new moon is clearly the best time to shoot the Milky Way. It just also happens to be a great time for low tides and, if you’re doing more than just celestial photography, you’ll get in at least one set of either morning or evening golden hour photography. Double win!
5. Arrive Early
Another no-brainer, yet how many of us have found ourselves harried because we weren’t quite set up right when the magical moment we’d been waiting for appeared? Getting to your location early and getting fully set up with plenty of time to spare can make a huge difference in this part of things—it might even allow you to get bonus shots you weren’t expecting.
Another no-brainer, yet how many of us have found ourselves harried because we weren’t quite set up right when the magical moment we’d been waiting for appeared? Getting to your location early and getting fully set up with plenty of time to spare can make a huge difference in this part of things—it might even allow you to get bonus shots you weren’t expecting.
How to Photograph the Moon
Over the past few months several peopls have asked me 'How do I photograph the moon. When I try it comes out as a tiny white blob with none of detail you see with the naked eye'
This Monday morning 2.00 to 5.00 is a great time for phoyographing the moon. Not only is it at its biggest (it is about as close to the earth as it gets), but it is also in eclipse, it is passing through the earths shaddow. This will turn the mood into a reeddish orange colour.
So how do I aviod the little white blog syndrome? First have you got the right gear? You will need:-
If you want to enlarge the moon and show the details of the moon surface, a good telephoto lens longer than 200mm is almost required. At long focal lengths of 200mm and above, even a slight move can screw up the picture. That’s why if you are using a telephoto lens, a stable tripod is required to be able to produce a sharp image of the moon. Having a remote camera trigger also helps reduce the camera shake and if you have a Mirror Lock Up (MLU) feature in your camera, you can almost completely eliminate all vibrations.
Here are the settings you need:-
If you want an object in the foreground such as a tree, a rock or your house the only way to capture the scene with the moon properly exposed, is to take two separate shots of the scene – one with the foreground properly exposed and the moon overexposed and one with the moon properly exposed and the foreground objects heavily underexposed. You will then have to combine the images on your computer. The easiest way is to select and copy the moon (it will have a very dark background making the selection process easy) and them paste it ont your foreground image. It will need a bit of tweaking in Photoshop/Lightroom or a similar programme to get it right.
With any luck you will get something better than this.
This Monday morning 2.00 to 5.00 is a great time for phoyographing the moon. Not only is it at its biggest (it is about as close to the earth as it gets), but it is also in eclipse, it is passing through the earths shaddow. This will turn the mood into a reeddish orange colour.
So how do I aviod the little white blog syndrome? First have you got the right gear? You will need:-
- A DSLR camera with a 200mm+ telephoto lens, the longer the lens the better, or a point and shoot camera that has an optical zoom capability.
- A stable tripod.
- Remote camera trigger (optional). If you do not have one, a timer in your camera will also work.
If you want to enlarge the moon and show the details of the moon surface, a good telephoto lens longer than 200mm is almost required. At long focal lengths of 200mm and above, even a slight move can screw up the picture. That’s why if you are using a telephoto lens, a stable tripod is required to be able to produce a sharp image of the moon. Having a remote camera trigger also helps reduce the camera shake and if you have a Mirror Lock Up (MLU) feature in your camera, you can almost completely eliminate all vibrations.
Here are the settings you need:-
- Camera Mode: Set your camera mode to full Manual Mode.
- ISO: Set your ISO to 100 if you have a Canon DSLR and to 200 if you have a Nikon DSLR (basically, whatever is the lowest ISO you have in your camera). For most other brands, the base ISO is also 100. If you have a point and shoot camera, see if you can find a menu setting to set your ISO to 100. Make sure “Auto ISO” is turned Off.
- Aperture: Set your aperture to f/11.
- Shutter Speed: Set your shutter speed to 1/125 on cameras with base ISO 100, and to 1/250 on Nikon DSLRs with base ISO 200.
- Lens Focus: Set your lens to manual focus (either through a switch on the lens or on the camera) and set your focus to infinity. Be careful while setting the focus to infinity, as some lenses allow focusing beyond infinity. On modern DLSR's there is a handy feature called “live-view" which can accurately acquire focus on objects. You can use live view on auto focus or better on manual focus with the live view zoomed in. You will have to loo in your camera manual to see if you can do this. If you do not have such a feature in your camera, then try setting your lens to the center of the infinity sign, then take a picture and see if it came out sharp by zooming in the rear LCD of the camera.
If you want an object in the foreground such as a tree, a rock or your house the only way to capture the scene with the moon properly exposed, is to take two separate shots of the scene – one with the foreground properly exposed and the moon overexposed and one with the moon properly exposed and the foreground objects heavily underexposed. You will then have to combine the images on your computer. The easiest way is to select and copy the moon (it will have a very dark background making the selection process easy) and them paste it ont your foreground image. It will need a bit of tweaking in Photoshop/Lightroom or a similar programme to get it right.
With any luck you will get something better than this.
Landscapes Composition
Landscape composition
Many people will be taking pictures of landscapes. Be it on holiday to capture the views of faraway lands or to get great images of our fantastic local scenery. Following a few simple rules will help improve the image and make a snap into a picture.
Rule of Thirds
Imagine what you see in the view finder, or on the LCD screen, is divided up with four lines, like a noughts and crosses grid (into thirds) so you have nine squares in the picture. Many cameras will have a function that actually put the lines on the screen so you don’t have to imagine them. Now instead of placing the main part of the picture you want to take in the middle of the screen place it as near as possible to where two of the lines cross. This will give the shot better balance and be more pleasing to the eye. If you have a natural line in your picture, the horizon or a distant mountain range put that as near as possible on one of the lines rather than across the centre of the frame.
Leading Lines
Try to compose the picture so that there is a lead into the frame and towards your main subject. It could be a winding road, a fence, rocks on the shore or a wave patterns in the sand.
Depth
To get the feeling of depth in your picture think about getting a strong foreground, for example one of those big round bails of straw or some brightly coloured flowers. Then try to get some middle ground in the image. This will often be your main subject. And finally make sure you have a background. It is better to have fluffy white clouds in the sky rather than an expanse of blue or grey. Distant mountains or buildings are good for background as well.
Framing
A variation on getting a good foreground is to get a frame round your main subject. This can be a simple as having the leafy branch of a tree in the foreground across the top of your picture to taking the shot though a natural or artificial hole. A window frame the arch of a bridge or a rainbow would do.
Odds
The human brain is a funny thing. We seem to find odd numbers easier on the eye than even numbers. Three sheep in the foreground is better than four, three wind turbines on a distant hill is more pleasing to the eye than two (regardless of what you think about them in the first place).
Diagonals
Diagonal lines though the frame work well. They are more dynamic than horizontal or vertical lines. If you have a breakwater in the picture get it to go out from the bottom left corner of the frame not straight out from the middle. Put a stripy pattern on a slant. A bridges is another subject that generally looks better if taken from an angle rather than straight on. A note of caution, horizons should invariably be straight. Even if they are a little bit out, it shows.
Finally remember that these are not rules but guidelines and can be broken. But if you do break them know that you are breaking them , and have a good reason for doing so.
Many people will be taking pictures of landscapes. Be it on holiday to capture the views of faraway lands or to get great images of our fantastic local scenery. Following a few simple rules will help improve the image and make a snap into a picture.
Rule of Thirds
Imagine what you see in the view finder, or on the LCD screen, is divided up with four lines, like a noughts and crosses grid (into thirds) so you have nine squares in the picture. Many cameras will have a function that actually put the lines on the screen so you don’t have to imagine them. Now instead of placing the main part of the picture you want to take in the middle of the screen place it as near as possible to where two of the lines cross. This will give the shot better balance and be more pleasing to the eye. If you have a natural line in your picture, the horizon or a distant mountain range put that as near as possible on one of the lines rather than across the centre of the frame.
Leading Lines
Try to compose the picture so that there is a lead into the frame and towards your main subject. It could be a winding road, a fence, rocks on the shore or a wave patterns in the sand.
Depth
To get the feeling of depth in your picture think about getting a strong foreground, for example one of those big round bails of straw or some brightly coloured flowers. Then try to get some middle ground in the image. This will often be your main subject. And finally make sure you have a background. It is better to have fluffy white clouds in the sky rather than an expanse of blue or grey. Distant mountains or buildings are good for background as well.
Framing
A variation on getting a good foreground is to get a frame round your main subject. This can be a simple as having the leafy branch of a tree in the foreground across the top of your picture to taking the shot though a natural or artificial hole. A window frame the arch of a bridge or a rainbow would do.
Odds
The human brain is a funny thing. We seem to find odd numbers easier on the eye than even numbers. Three sheep in the foreground is better than four, three wind turbines on a distant hill is more pleasing to the eye than two (regardless of what you think about them in the first place).
Diagonals
Diagonal lines though the frame work well. They are more dynamic than horizontal or vertical lines. If you have a breakwater in the picture get it to go out from the bottom left corner of the frame not straight out from the middle. Put a stripy pattern on a slant. A bridges is another subject that generally looks better if taken from an angle rather than straight on. A note of caution, horizons should invariably be straight. Even if they are a little bit out, it shows.
Finally remember that these are not rules but guidelines and can be broken. But if you do break them know that you are breaking them , and have a good reason for doing so.
Loch Muick
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